The signs of fleas include salt-and-pepper-like grains about the size of sand in the coat usually around the dog’s back, tail, groin and hindquarters. They are characterized by persistent scratching. If you see one adult flea on your pet, you need to mount your attack.
Every dog owner will have to do battle with the dreaded flea unless he or she lives in a high altitude or year-round cold climate. Fleas are not a sign that you keep an untidy home or that you are negligent dog owner. They are just a part of dog ownership, especially when the temperature warms.
Understanding the life cycle of the flea and adopting a program that effectively treats the dog and its environment is the key to control. Adult fleas comprise only five percent of the total flea popu¬lation. Their eggs comprise 50%, larvae 35% and pupae 10%. Fleas are most prevalent when the temperature warms. Fleas spend their life on the dog. Treatment of the dog is only partly effective. Flea eggs are laid on the dog and eventually fall to the ground or carpet and hatch within 1-10 days. Insecticides usually do not kill flea eggs. A female flea can lay 40-50 eggs a day for up to 50 days. Within 2 to 12 days, the eggs hatch into larvae. The larvae then spin cocoons. They then hatch into adult fleas in 7 to 14 days. To be successful you must attack not only the flea, but also the flea eggs and the larvae i that are in your environment. Otherwise the dog will reinfect itself when new fleas emerge.
Simultaneously mount a three-pronged attack. The main wea¬pons are insecticides such as dips, shampoos especially formulated to kill adult fleas, powders that cling to a dog’s coat, sprays to instantly kill adult fleas, bombs to cover large indoor areas and doghouses, and granules used for the outdoor areas or on carpets to penetrate deep into the base.
Treat the dog with a shampoo that is formulated to kill fleas. Treat inside the house with bombs, sprays, granules. Treat the yard with sprays, granules.
The Plan: Start with a thorough cleaning, to eliminate some of the eggs, larvae and fleas lurking in your home. Wash all pet bedding in hot, soapy water. Mop hard floors. Slowly and thoroughly vacuum everywhere — carpets, upholstery, drapes, corners and crevices! Most insecticides will only kill adult fleas. A slow vacuum will take up eggs and larvae. This will prevent them from hatching and reinfesting your home. Seal the vacuum bag immediately in a plastic bag. Spray or use granules in the yard, then treat the dog by taking it to a groomer, veterinarians or give it a bath inside the home using a safe shampoo and flea dip (make sure the dog’s eyes and ears are protected). Spray or bomb inside the home, or for long-term results have your house treated by an exterminator company or ask your pet supply store if they recommend a long-term, safe inorganic salt prod¬uct. Don’t forget to treat crates, kennels, runs, bedding, garages and the car. Vacuum often and change the bag!
For most infestations, the cleaning/shampoo/flea comb system is all you will need to achieve flea control.
Choose a product based on the recommendation of your veterinarian. Don’t mix dog and cat shampoos.
Insecticides are poisons! Pyrethrums, which are made from chrysanthemums, are claimed to be safe and effective but, like any pesticide, can be toxic if not properly used. Use chemical flea prod¬ucts with caution and only as directed. Don’t mix products! Be especially careful with puppies and senior dogs.
Many dogs suffer allergies to flea bites called flea bite dermatitis. Some owners rub on aloe vera for relief. Consult with your veterinarian for an effective course of treatment.
The adult flea harbors a common type of tapeworm. Most dogs will eat a flea while grooming themselves and become infested. To control tapeworms it is important to control fleas.
Check with your veterinarian before applying an insecticide to, dog that has recently received deworming medication.
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